so today i went surfing again with a couple of friends to Manhattan beach. today was suppose to be a decent day of 2-3 footers but for some reason we kept getting hit by huge waves that came way over our heads. the waves were just too intense for me and i kept wiping out. i remember one wave i tried paddling after, it was about 6ft high and way too hollow for me but i tried anyway. i got to the top of the wave when the water under my board just collapsed and i nose dived 6ft straight into the thrashing water being tossed around underwater not know where up was and not knowing when i would ever see the surface. when i finally floated up to surface the wave had thrown me a good 10 yards in. i was too burnt out to paddle back out so i took a break on shore not knowing if i would go back out there. but while i was sitting on shore seeing my friends and other surfers in the water i knew i had to go back in. i knew going back was a bad idea but i also knew if i didnt go out again and just gave up id hate myself for giving up so i did what i had to, i went back in and got wiped out again and again until my body couldnt take any more beating. at the end of the day i had cuts on my hands from the leash and fins and a bloody nose from either all the salt water being flushed in and out of my nose or from the impact of the waves tossing me around and the waves were so big they ripped my power balance bracelet clean off my hand. today was by far the worst surfing experience ive ever had... I CANT WAIT TO GO AGAIN!
...when i think about it i can still feel the wave crashing over me and the feeling of tumbling nonstop under the water, its gotta be second on my list of worst experiences right behind the dentist.
